The allen head cap screws for the CV joints are 6 mm. I would recommend you get a very high quality 6 mm, 3/8th drive, allen socket. I use a Snap-On. Get an extra bit for it, or buy two. This is so if you ruin one, you won't lose a day getting another. I keep two extra bits for mine. Snap-On will replace them free, but it takes a few days to get together with my rep to get one. I would be down until then without extra bits.
You will also need a 30 mm socket and an impact wrench (either electric or air). First to remove the axle nut, then later to remove the nuts on the end of the shafts. You can use a cheater bar and a big ratchet or breaker bar to remove the axle nut. To do this the car should be on the ground. I have someone hold the brake pedal while I pull on the cheater bar. The impact is easier.
[Lalo: Rather than removing the axle nut, I find it easier to remove the allen bolts from BOTH ends and leave the stub axle/rotor/caliper bracket alone.]
[Mark Freeman: The A-arm/hub/rotor/half-shaft/strut assembly is pretty heavy but lots easier to take out as a unit. I've had some serious battles with axle nuts that were won either by using a grinder or a CO2 bottle with regulator cranked wide open...brrrrr! To get the unit in and out, set the bottom of the hum on a jack, slowly lower and roll it out. The allen bolts for the half-shafts aren't too bad with a decent tool. Keep them clean unless your going to repack the CVs.]
For ease of access you may want to remove the engine cover.
Before removing the axle nuts, use a narrow (width of
the groove) chisel to "unstake" the staked nut.
Loosen the rear axle nuts, then place the car on stands,
remove the rear wheels and drain the gear oil. While the gear oil is draining,
you can work from above. On injected cars pull the air cleaner canister,
or on carbed cars, pull the blower motor. Then remove the clutch slave
cylinder and its bracket. No need to break the system, just tuck it away.
Next, break loose (a couple of turns only) the two top bellhousing bolts.
Finally, disconnect the speedo drive if it comes off easily. If not,
leave it on until after you lower the transmission out of the car.
From under the car, unplug the reverse switch, remove the starter bolts (I leave it in place), remove the shift linkage lollipop and break loose the two lower bellhousing bolts as you did the top two.
Now move to the driver side of the car and remove the allen screws holding the inner CV joint to the stub shaft on the transmission. I use an impact gun for this as it is easier and less likely to strip the allen screws than a hand ratchet. Be sure the allen screws are clean so the bit can bottom out and fit properly. And keep some force on the ratchet to keep the bit fully seated. NOTE: It is very easy to strip the heads out. If you do, use a drill and a hardened bit to drill the head off the screw. A cheap allen wrench will almost guarantee you will strip one or more out.
Remove the brake caliper, bracket and rotor. Next remove strut, swing the A-arm down and pull the axle up, slide the axle out of the hub and set it aside.
From under the car, support the engine (on the oil pan) with a jack or stand. Then pull the cross member, the lower motor mount and the backing plate/flywheel cover. Now remove the allen screws from the passenger side axle inner CV joint.
Now you have a choice of either removing the driver's side A-arm or swinging it down and pulling the gearbox out through the inner wheel well opening and the A-arm. I prefer the latter. Everyone else tells me they prefer to pull the A-arm. If you pull the A-arm, note the position of the shims so you can re-install them correctly.
Finally, remove the bellhousing bolts (lower ones first) and slide the transmission off the clutch. I prefer to sit in the empty wheel well and drop it into my lap. If you leave the A-arm on the car (which is now pointing straight down) it makes a handy place to rest the transmission during this process.
The speedometer cable is one of the last things I take off. Usually, I will set the transmission in my lap and then use a pair of large slip joint pliers to remove it, before setting the tranny aside. I do it this way because it isn't always that easy to get on it with the transmission in place.
You may find you want to lower the jack supporting the engine an inch or so to allow the transmission room to slide off the clutch.
That's it! Takes about an hour if you work quickly.
Next remove the three case bolts from inside the bellhousing (13mm heads). Then place the tranny, bellhousing down, on the table. Then, remove the case extension. Inside you will find 5th gear and its selector fork. Remove the bolt retaining the fork to its selector shaft and slide the fork and its slider off the gear.
Now use a pair of vise grips on the main shifter rod and
push it into the case as far as possible. This is to select third gear.
Next, re-install the 5th gear slider (note it has only one side with teeth
on it) and force it down, locking it into 5th gear. The transmission should
now be locked into two gears preventing the shafts from turning. Use a
chisel or screwdriver to un-stake the nuts on the end of the shafts. Now
use a 30 mm socket and impact to remove the nuts.
[Lalo: you don't have access to an impact wrench,
removing the nuts off the ends of the shafts is easily done by inserting
a shop rag in between the meshing teeth of the fifth gears and using a
regular breaker bar. The rag gets jammed and locks the shafts from turning.
]
Once the nuts are off, remove the two gears and their sleeves. Now the intermediate plate can be removed. Removing the intermediate plate exposes the shaft bearing. Remove the snap rings that retain the bearings. Now use the vise grips and shift the transmission back to neutral.
Next, remove the detent spring retaining plate (next to the reverse switch) and its springs and detent balls. A pencil magnet will retrieve the balls from the holes.
Now remove the case bolts retaining the two case halves. There are a couple of tabs at the edges of the case halves that allow you to use a large screwdriver to separate the cases. You will need a mallet or the handle of your hammer to help knock the bearings out of the end of the outer case half, but be gentle (these are the bearings you removed the snap rings from). Set the outer case half aside. You now have the gear cluster and selector shafts exposed.
Remove the bolts which retain the shifting forks and dogs to the selector shafts and slide the shafts out of the case and forks. Note the position of the shafts in the case and lay them out on the bench in the appropriate order. Now remove the forks and dogs from the gear cluster. Do not remove the reverse idler shaft.
Now you can remove the entire gearset and input shaft from the case. The two should be lifted out together. This will leave the reverse idler in place on its shaft. It will also leave the intermediate linkage and differential in the case.
Obviously there are two shafts, one with the gear cluster and one with a fixed set of cogs machined into the shaft. This is the "driven" shaft, so named as it is the one driven by the engine. This shaft may have come out with the bearing on the splined end that mates with the clutch. If so, you will want to remove the bearing. Sometimes a screwdriver can be used to separate it from the shaft, or use a soft face mallet to gently work it off the shaft. Be careful not to chip the teeth of the gears or hit it hard enough to damage the bearing. It is not necessary to remove the large bearing from the 5th gear end, but if it comes off easily, remove it.
Now inspect all of the gears' teeth for chips, or debris stuck deep between the teeth. Pay special attention to the smallest of the gears, the one located 2nd from the clutch splines, this is reverse. It is normal to have wear on the end towards the clutch splines. A little is normal, none is better, a lot is a problem. Note that the gear is cut into the shaft itself. If you tear this gear up, you must replace the entire shaft. Once you have determined the condition of the driven shaft, lay it aside.
Now we begin on the gear cluster itself. First, make yourself some clean space to lay the parts out in order. The "lay" shaft has the pinion gear on the end opposite 5th gear. It is machined into the shaft itself, all of the rest slides off the other end. Try to pull the large bearing off the end of the shaft. If it won't come off by hand, place a block of wood on a sturdy surface (a concrete floor works well). Next, turn the shaft pinion gear up, cup your hands under the bearing so that the exposed portion of the shaft extends below your hands and knock the end of the shaft on the block of wood while cradling the bearing in your hands. A couple of pops and the weight of the gearset should break the bearing loose so that it and the rest of the gearset will slide off the shaft.
Lay the parts out in order: the bearing, 5th gear and
its sleeve, the 3rd/4th slider and its tripod hub, 3rd gear and its sleeve,
2nd gear and its sleeve, the 1st/2nd slider and its hub and 1st gear and
its sleeve. Note that three of the sleeves have a lip on one end and one
does not. Note the orientation of the sleeve as you remove it from the
gear.
Also, the synchronizers for 1st and 2nd may come out
on the gear or on the hub. Try to keep the synchro ring with its designated
gear for now.
Now you will want to disassemble the various sub assemblies.
3rd, 4th and 5th gears all have their synchronizers mounted on the gear.
Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring that retains the
synchro ring. You will want to use a robust set of snap ring pliers for
this task. I spread the snap ring and walk out the end with the tab first.
Once the snap ring is off remove the synchro ring (noting which side faced
the slider), the two locks and crescent springs. Now examine the synchros
for wear. You should see wear at the edges of the gap in the ring, on the
side that faced the slider. The synchro has a textured finish to it. Wear
appears as a smooth, polished surface.
We will cover wear on these components later.
Now disassemble the 1st and 2nd gear slider's hub assembly. If the slider came off with the hub, you can push the hub out of the slider. It is spring loaded, but pops out easily. Once the hub is out of the slider, you will note there are three bright metal inserts held in place by a pair of circular springs (one on either side of the hub). Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the springs and allow the tabs to drop out of the hub.
Now clean all of the parts and return them to their appropriate location on your work surface. Remember to keep the individual components matched up with each gear (gear, sleeve, synchro, sliders).
The next step in the process is inspection and evaluation.
Now examine the sliding sleeves. Note that 5th has its own sleeve (with teeth on only one side). Test fit the slider to a gear to note how the teeth mesh. Examine the teeth on the side for the same points as on the gear. Typically you will see the most wear on the side of the slider that faces 3rd. Again the wear appears as a rounding of the teeth. Compare the length with the teeth on the other side (facing 4th, or on the 5th slider) for reference. If the teeth are worn down to the level of the side of the slider, it must be replaced. For a reference, test fit each side of the slider to both 3rd and 4th gears and compare the amount of overlap on the teeth. Then try turning each component the opposite direction and see how far you must pull them appart before they slip. This iswhere all of the engine power is delivered to the rear wheels when in that gear. The more overlap in the teeth, the more positive the shift. The less overlap, the easier it is to miss the shift and the more likely to pop out of gear. The final item for the gear and slider is the slider's inner teeth. You will notice the slider'steeth are on the inside of the sleeve. These teeth have a broad, flat face. They are machined with three distinct sections; the outter section is tapered to contact the synchro (on each side of the slider) and the center section has a slight depression to capture the synchro when fully engaged.
To check the slider, re-install a synchro on 3rd gear, with its locks and snap ring. Then test fit each side of the slider to the gear. The flat inner face of the teethshould contact the surface of the synchro ring before the engagement teeth have any overlap. This is how the synchro spins up before the teeth mesh. If the teeth mesh before the synchro makes full contact with the slider, you get the dreaded crunch. Try both sides of the slider for comparison. Do the same with 4th gear and compare its action with 3rd. If one side of the slider must consistantly cover more of the synchro to get any resistance from the synchro, that side has more wear. Now examine the teeth faces on each side of the slider and look for evidence of wear. Usually, if the teeth face and synchro have noticable wear, the engagement teeth have the points worn off anyway.
Finally, examine the synchro rings themselves. As noted earlier, it is normal to see some wear, as polishing, at the gap. Compare each gears synchro with the others. The further around the ring the polishing goes, the more wear. Also, note from your test fitting the slider earlier, which synchro gave the slider less resistance. Another good comparison is to examine the side of the synchro that was facing the slider and compare it to the side facing the gear. If there is a noticable difference in the texture and taper, the synchro should be replaced. Or if the polishing at the gap extends more than 1/4 to 3/8 inch in either direction from the gap, replace it. If the synchros (especially 4th and 5th) look to be in good condition they can be re-used.
The synchros for 1st and 2nd are "ring" type (also known as 'hub' type). First examine the main gear teeth as you did on the others. Then examine the smaller engagement teeth. Again, these should have neatly machine points. Some rounding is normal. Completely rounded is not and may require the gear be replaced. Note that beside the engagement teeth is a tapered hub with half a dozen narrow ribs on it. This is the synchro hub. Test fit the gear's synchro to its hub. The synchro is the ring (about 3" in diameter) with the blocks at the outter edge. The interior of the ring has a taper that matches the gear's hub. Using modest pressure, fit the ring over the hub while turning the ring. The synchro should grip the hub before bottoming out. If the synchro bottoms out and you can still turn it, try the same test with the other synchro. If it too bottoms out, try the same test with both synchros on the other gear.
What we are trying to determine with this test is whether it is the synchro or the hub that is worn out. If you have a synchro that bottoms out on both hubs, and one that doesn't, then you have a worn out synchro. If you have both sychros that bottom out on one hub and not the other, then you have a worn out hub. If the hub is worn out the gear must be replaced.
In those rare cases where both synchros bottom out on both hubs. A new synchro should be used to determine the condition of the hubs.
I typically like to see a measurment of about 50/1000 clearance before the ring bottoms out on the hub. 30/1000 or less and I would replace the synchro.
Now we turn out attention to the 1st/2nd slider. The engagement teeth are on the interior of the slider. As before we are looking for fresh points on the teeth. And, as before, some rounding is normal. If the teeth's ends are beat up and completely rounded, the slider (like the gears) should be replaced. The 1st/2nd slider has teeth on the outside of the sleeve as well. This is reverse. On the 5 spd, the edge of the teeth next to the fork's groove is what is important, (on the 4 spd it is the edge away from the fork's groove). This is the side of the teeth that engage with the reverse idler. These teeth are cut with a slight taper at the edge. If they are uniform, without much rounding, the slider is usable.
Now examine the 1st/2nd slider's hub components. The hub itself is almost bullit proof. But you need to examine the three little metal inserts for pitting or dents. They should be find. Also examine the two ring springs that hold them in place. This is a thin wire ring with a gap and three little kinks or dimples (to retain the metal inserts). If a spring is broken or bent, it must be replaced.
Finally, check the reverse idler. It too has a slight taper to the cut of the teeth (opposite of the side with the groove for the fork). Again we are looking for freshpoints on the teeth, but some rounding is normal.
Note: I have seen reverse in these transmissions in terrible shape. I have seen the teeth on the idler, the outside of the slider and on the driven shaft, worn almost completely off. Sometimes as much as 3/4th of the teeth gone. Because these are not sychromesh gears you can get a way with a lot more wear on the 3 reverse components than on any other gear. Just remember to be gentile with it.
Mac, you noted the bearing race on the end of the lay shaft was hashed. What does it look like? If it has a dull or pitted surface, it is. You will need to check therollers in the bearing itself too. It may need to be replaced as well. Usually you can heat the race with a lighter or small torch and pull it off with a pair of pliers. Or use a high quality chisle and carefully drive it off.
Remove the bolt holding the retaining tab in the reverse
idler shaft, remove the tab and pull the shaft out. Note that there is
an O-ring on the shaft to seal it to the case. Next, remove the pinion
bearing from the case. This is the bearing that sits right beside the differential.
You should be able to stick both index fingers into the bearing and pull
it out. If not, a pair of right-angle picks or two pieces of coat hanger
wire bent at the ends will suffice.
In the three holes for the selector shafts you will find small passageways connecting them to each other. In the holes you will find detent plungers. They are shaped like bullets. Use a small screwdriver and push them out of their passageway and retrieve them with either a pencil magnet or a pair of needle nose pliers. Also, note that the selector shaft that occupied the center hole has a tiny hole in the detent notch cut in the bottom of the shaft. There is a tiny pin, slightly larger than a pencil lead that occupies the hole. Collect the pin and place it aside with the detent plungers.
Lift the differential from the case and set it aside. To remove the diff you must have pulled the passenger side stub shaft before opening up the case. You will notice a casting at the bottom of the case between the differential and the selector rods. This is the intermediate linkage. It is held in place by three bolts. Before removing the bolts, look under the casting and note how the intermediate linkage fits and interacts with the link from the main shift rod. Once you have identified how they fit together, remove the three bolts and lift the intermediate linkage out of the case. You will find a little metal tab with a spring-loaded lever mounted under the casting. Note its position and set it aside with the linkage.
Remove the boot from the main shifting rod. A pair of needle nose pliers works well for this. Now push the rod as far into the case as it will go and remove the bolt that holds the main rod's linkage and pull the main rod out of the case. Set it, the linkage, and its bolt aside. Note that the bolt has a guide pin on the end to locate the linkage properly and will only fit in the rod from one direction. Finally, remove the magnet that sits between the selector rod holes and the front of the case and wipe it clean. This is a particularly messy job.
Now turn the case over and remove the clips that hold the clutch release bearing (throw-out bearing) and pull the bearing off the tube for the input shaft. Remove the bolt that holds the release bearing fork to the shaft and pull the shaft out of the case. Note that this bolt too has a guide pin to locate the fork. It may take some persuasion to get the fork off the shaft. Spray the shaft with some penetrating oil and work the fork loose, it should then slide off. Note that there is a plastic bushing at the hole in the case for the clutch actuator shaft. It may have come out with the shaft. If it did, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry it away from the arm and slide it off the shaft. Again, some penetrating oil will help. If the bushing came out with the shaft there is likely rust on the shaft under the bushing. Use some fine sand paper to sand away the rust and spray it clean with penetrating oil. Re-install the bushing back into the case. If the bushing stayed in the case when the shaft was removed, simply inspect the shaft for rust and clean it up.
Next, remove the two bolts retaining the tube for the input shaft. This is the tube the release bearing rides on. Once the bolts are out, a light pop with a soft face mallet will loosen the tube. If the input shaft bearing didn't come out with the bearing, it can now be easily removed from the case. Wipe the tube clean and chuck the nose of the tube up in a vise (be sure to protect the tube from being marked by the jaws of the vise) and use a large screwdriver or seal puller to remove the input shaft seal. Locate the input shaft seal in the gasket kit and install the new seal using either a seal driver or a large socket and a hammer to drive it home in the tube. Apply a light coat of grease to the lip of the seal.
I like to clean the cases thoroughly as they are usually
quite dirty inside and out. However, if facilities are not available, you
can use "brake clean" to rinse out the interior of the case. Make sure
to clean the bottom of the case thoroughly as this is where the debris
settles.
Once clean, use a seal driver or a large socket and a
hammer to drive out the two axle seals from each case half. Note the position
of the seal in the case and install the new seal to the same depth. Locate
the input shaft tube gasket, apply a light coat of sealant (either GE or
Permatex Blue) to both gasket surfaces and install the tube. Note that
the gasket and tube can only be fitted in one position.
Use a hammer and chisel to drive out the bushing for the main shifting rod. The chisel should be placed under the lip that retains the boot. Install the new bushing using a soft face mallet or a block of wood and a hammer. Be careful not the cock the bushing in the case or damage its lip.
Examine the main shift rod for scoring. It is very common for this rod to be badly scored on high mileage transmissions. Light scoring is not a problem, heavy scoring must be sanded smooth. Use 600 grit sandpaper to sand the rod smooth. You will not be able to remove all of the scoring, but it should be smooth to the touch, with no burrs. Wipe the rod clean, note how its linkage bolts fits into the rod and re-install it in the case. (It should be turned so that the bolt can bottom out in the rod.) It is necessary to hold the main shift rod's linkage in place in the bottom of the case while installing the rod. Note that the linkage can only be installed in one direction and still have access to the bolt.
Fit a new O-ring, from the gasket set, to the reverse idler shaft and fit the shaft into the case. Install its retaining tab and bolt it into place. If there is no new o-ring, or the o-ring is to big, the old o-ring can typically be re-used.
Fit the metal stamping that goes under the intermediate linkage casting. One ear fits over the bolt hole next to the selector shaft holes and the other the center hole (located at the top of the casting). Now drop in the intermediate linkage casting and fit the lower finger of the linkage with that of the main shift rod. Each finger should fit between the other half's two plates. Then install the three bolts. Note the longest of the three bolts goes in the center hole and captures the rod for the linkage.
Drop in the differential, with the "pumpkin" side down. The differential should spin freely without fouling the case anywhere. Finally, install the input shaft bearing and the pinion shaft bearing. You're done with the cases for now.
Now take the sliding sleeve hub, locate its three little metal tab inserts and the two wire springs. The metal tabs have a notch that faces out. The tabs fit into the hub in the opening that has a tiny lip that extends out over the edge of the metal tabs. There are also three other openings in the hub, they are for the blocks on the outer edge of the synchro ring. Once you have located the three positions for the tabs, install a wire spring on one side of the hub so that each of its three notches lines up with a position for a metal tab. Now install each of the metal tabs, starting with the one opposite of the gap in the spring. Once all three tabs are in place, install the second wire spring on the other side of the hub. Make sure that the gaps in the springs do not line up. Install the 1st/2nd slider over the hub. You will notice there are three inner teeth on the slider that have a notch cut into the center of each of these three teeth. These teeth line up with the metal tabs on the hub. Install the slider and snap it into its position. Test its function by pushing it off the hub in both directions. It should snap smoothly into position from either direction.
Note that the outer edge of the slider has the reverse gear teeth cut into it and next to those teeth is the groove for the 1st/2nd shifting fork. Now take the hub/slider assembly and drop it onto the lay shaft. It should be turned so that the reverse gear teeth are on the side away from 1st gear (the side without the teeth is toward 1st gear). Make sure that the synchronizer's blockers (the blocks on the outside of the synchro ring) drop into its position on the hub. The splines at the center of the hub should mate fully with the splines on the lay shaft.
Next drop the 2nd gear synchro ring into its position on the hub. Make sure it is turned so its inner taper will match the 2nd gear hub. Now fit the 2nd gear sleeve into second gear with the lip on the side of the gear away from the hub and drop the pair into place on the lay shaft.
Next, install the synchros on each of the three remaining gears. Since they are all the same I will review the procedure only once. Place the gear on the table with the synchro hub facing up. Place the synchro ring on the hub with the notch in the ring, opposite the notch in the hub. Position the two synchro locks, one with the tab on the inside at the notch in the synchro hub and the other, with the tab on the outside at the notch in the synchro ring. Next, drop in the two crescent springs. Install the snap ring. Spread the ring with a pair of snapring pliers and use a flat blade screwdriver to push the ring in the groove starting at the tab and working your way around until it is fully seated.
For those gears (with the Porsche type synchros) that you have not chosen to replace the synchros on, turn the synchros so that the worn side is now facing the gear. This allows you to use the fresh side of the synchro.
Drop the 3rd gear sleeve onto the lay shaft, it is the sleeve that has no lip, then drop 3rd gear over the sleeve, with the synchro facing away from 2nd. Drop the tripod hub onto the shaft ensuring that it fits nicely against 3rd with its fingers extending over the synchro. It too has inner splines that mate with the splines on the lay shaft. Drop the 3rd/4th slider onto the tripod hub. If you are re-using the 3rd/4th slider, determine which side of the slider has the best teeth and turn the slider so the best teeth are facing 3rd gear.
Finally, insert the sleeve into 4th gear, with the lip on the side away from the synchro and fit the pair onto the lay shaft.
Now install the reverse idler gear onto the idler shaft. The grove for the shifter fork should be positioned toward the case. Next, take the input shaft (driven shaft) in one hand and the lay shaft (with the gearset now installed) in the other and fit them together to see how the gearsets line up. Note the splined end of the input shaft and the pinion gear of the lay shaft should be at the same end. Now set the input shaft aside and fit the lay shaft into the case by placing the bearing race next to the pinion gear into its bearing in the case. Make sure the pinion gear meshes with the ring gear on the differential. Now spin the lay shaft to turn the differential and make sure it turns smoothly.
Now, while lifting the reverse idler gear about 1 inch above the case, fit the input shaft into the case. This takes some practice and may require a couple of attempts as well as slightly lifting the lay shaft to get the complete assembly to drop into place. The input shaft has seated when the teeth for 1st gear are seated next to the inner race of the bearing in the case. Examine the fit of each of the gears on both the input shaft and lay shaft. The gears should all line up neatly. You can also raise the reverse gear with your fingers to see how it fits between it's gear on the input shaft and the teeth on the outside of the 1st/2nd slider. Now spin the differential and examine the rotation of the lay and input shafts. All should turn smoothly.
Next, we will fit the selector rods and shift forks and
button up the case.
We are almost done!
Now re-fit the two shifting forks. The 1st/2nd fork is installed with the bore for the selector shaft above the fingers. You may have to shift the 1/2 slider into the 2nd gear position to gain access to the fork's groove in the slider. Once fitted, shift the slider back to center. Now swing the end of the shaft until it lines up with the hole for its selector shaft. The 1/2 selector shaft is the one farthest from the 5th reverse shaft. Now fit the 3/4 fork. It is turned the opposite way from the 1/2 fork, so that the flat side is facing up. Swing it into position where its bore lines up with the hole for the center selector shaft. Finally, fit the reverse fork. It can only fit in one position and still have its notch line up with the intermediate linkage.
Now identify the reverse/5th selector rod. It has a bolt
hole at the very end for the 5th gear fork. Insert the lower end, the end
with a single detent notch (the upper ends all have 3 notches), through
the reverse fork and into its hole in the case. Note the position of the
detent slots in the lower end and turn the rod so those slots face the
detent plunger in the case. Do not install the bolt for the fork yet. Make
sure the rod had bottomed out in the case, then, using a tiny screwdriver
to push the detent plunger, raise the shaft until the detent plunger locks
the shaft in place. Next, identify the 3/4 fork, it has the tiny hole in
the detent notches of the lower end. Insert the interlocking pin in the
hole and insert the shaft through the 3/4 fork. Place the linkage fork
into place next to the reverse linkage fork and guide the shaft through
the linkage fork and into the case. Make sure the shaft is turned so that
the upper detent notches are facing the same direction as the upper notches
on the reverse/5th shaft. Again, use a small screwdriver to push on the
detent plunger and raise the 3/4 shaft until the detent plunger locks the
shaft in place. Now install the 1/2 shaft in the same manner as the 3/4
shaft, passing it through the slider fork and the linkage fork. You may
need to support the slider fork as well to prevent the rod from binding
as it lines up with the hole in the case. Now starting with the reverse
rod, install the bolts for each of the linkage forks and then the slider
forks and torque them in place. Make sure that all of the linkage forks
fit neatly together and the intermediate linkage is in position. Now fit
an adjustable wrench to the main shift rod and rotate the rod both directions
while observing the movement of the intermediate linkage through its range
of travel between the linkage forks of each of the selector rods. Finally,
drop the magnet into its slot in the case next to
the selector rods.
Now test fit the main case gasket and the outer case half. Be sure to line up the selector rods with their holes in the outer case half. Apply a thin coating of blue sealant, place the gasket and drop the outer case half into place. Install the case bolts and lightly torque them. Next fit the main shaft bearings and install the snap rings. You can fit one end of the snapring and work your way around using a large screwdriver to push the snapring into place. Be sure the snaprings are turned so that their gaps meet and the ends can overlap each other without fouling.
Test fit the intermediate case extension noting the position of the two small bolts near the bottom. One outside the extension and one inside. Apply a thin coating of blue sealant, place the gasket and fit the intermediate case extension. Install the two small bolts and torque them completely. Now install 5th gear on the input shaft and fit the 30 mm nut. 5th gear on the input shaft is either splined or has a keyway. Note that the hub is offset to one side. The offset is positioned toward the bearing. Next, install the 5th gear and its sleeve onto the lay shaft. The sleeve's lip goes toward the bearing. Also, the gear itself goes toward the bearing, with the synchro on the outside. Then fit the 5th gear slider hub, the large washer and nut. Note that one side of the hub is recessed to accommodate the large washer.
Now insert each of the detent balls and springs in the holes in the side of the case next to the reverse switch. Insert the shortest spring (it is also the stiffest spring) in the hole for the 5th/reverse selector rod. Then place the gasket and plate and bolt it into place. You do not need to use sealant on this gasket.
Fit the 5th gear slider and force it down, fully engaging 5th gear. (Note the 5th gear slider has teeth on only one side) Now use a pair of vise grips on the main shifting rod to force the rod into the case to fully engage a gear. Now the transmission should be locked into two gears so the shafts will not turn. Use an impact wrench to tighten the two 30mm nuts on the ends of the shafts and stake the nuts in place. Now remove the 5th gear slider and shift the main rod back to the neutral (center) position.
Fit the 5th gear fork to the slider and stall the pair onto the hub and selector rod. Bolt the fork to the selector rod. Now, match the various length and sizes of bolts up with the appropriate holes in the case extension, apply a thin coating of blue sealant to the gasket surfaces, fit the gasket, the case extension and bolt into place.
Tip the transmission back to its upright position and install the three case bolts from the bellhousing side. Re-install the clutch actuator rod and release bearing linkage. Apply a light coating of grease to the shaft to properly lubricate it. Also lightly grease the fork's bolt. Lightly grease the tube for the release bearing and re-install the release bearing. Test the action of the clutch actuator. It should move smoothly. Re-torque the main case bolts.
Finally, fit each of the stub shafts, place a block of wood on its face and use a hammer to drive it into place. Use both hands to grab the stub shafts and turn the shafts. You should be able to notice the transmission turning inside. It should turn smoothly, but require some effort.
You are done! The transmission can now be re-installed in the car!